Saturday, June 25, 2011

Ungrounded Electrical Receptacles

Grounding of electrical receptacles (which some laypeople refer to as outlets) is an important safety feature that has been required in new construction since 1962, as it minimizes the risk of electric shock and protects electrical equipment from damage. Modern, grounded 120-volt receptacles have a small, round ground slot centered below two vertical hot and neutral slots, and it provides an alternate path for electricity that may stray from an appliance. Older homes often have ungrounded, two-slot receptacles that are outdated and potentially dangerous. Homeowners sometimes attempt to perform the following dangerous modifications to ungrounded receptacles:


  • The use of an adapter, also known as a "cheater plug." Adapters permit the ungrounded operation of appliances that are designed for grounded operation. These are a cheaper alternative to replacing ungrounded receptacles, but are less safe than properly grounding the connected appliance;
  • Replacing a two-slot receptacle with a three-slot receptacle without re-wiring the electrical system so that a path to ground is provided to the receptacle. While this measure may serve as a seemingly proper receptacle for three-pronged appliances, this “upgrade” is potentially more dangerous than the use of an adapter because the receptacle will appear to be grounded and future owners might never be aware that their system is not grounded. If a building still uses knob-and-tube wiring, it is likely than any three-slot receptacles are ungrounded. To be sure, inspectors may test suspicious receptacles for grounding; and
  • Removal of the ground pin from an appliance. This common procedure not only prevents grounding but also bypasses the appliance’s polarizing feature, since a de-pinned plug can be inserted into the receptacle upside-down.
While homeowners may be made aware of the limitations of ungrounded electrical receptacles, upgrades are not necessarily required. Many small electrical appliances, such as alarm clocks and coffee makers, are two-pronged and are thus unaffected by a lack of grounding in the building’s electrical system.

Upgrading the system will bring it closer to modern safety standards, however, and this may be accomplished in the following ways:
  • Install three-slot receptacles and wire them so that they’re correctly grounded.
  • Install ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). These can be installed upstream at the electrical panel or at the receptacle itself. GFCIs are an accepted replacement because they will protect against electric shocks even in the absence of grounding, but they may not protect the powered appliance. Also, GFCI-protected ungrounded receptacles may not work effectively with surge protectors. Ungrounded GFCI-protected receptacles should be identified with labels that come with the new receptacles that state:  “No Equipment Ground.”
  • Replace three-slot receptacles with two-slot receptacles. Two-slot receptacles correctly represent that the system is ungrounded, lessening the chance that they will be used improperly.
Homeowners and non-qualified professionals should never attempt to modify a building’s electrical components. Misguided attempts to ground receptacles to a metallic water line or ground rod may be dangerous. Inspectors may recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate electrical receptacles and wiring.
In summary, adjustments should be made by qualified electricians -- not homeowners -- to an electrical system to upgrade ungrounded receptacles to meet modern safety standards and the requirements of today's typical household appliances.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Oil Tank Removal

Oil Tank Removal




Photo of a furnace oil tank in basement of house“According to the Insurance Bureau of Canada, a home with an exterior oil tank older than 15 years or an interior tank older than 20 years will NOT be insured”

The Technical Standards & Safety Authority has mandated that all heating fuel suppliers must inspect all oil tanks to which they deliver fuel, whether the oil tank is located above ground or below ground, initially and at least once every 10 years.
(Homeowners, should visit the T.S.S.A. Website which has more information about heating oil tanks & furnaces that use heating oil).
If your home has an exterior oil tank, interior oil tank, above ground fuel storage tank, underground fuel storage tank or heating oil tank that is no longer in use or more past it's service life cycle it MUST be removed from your home. Or perhaps you have an abandoned oil tank just sitting and taking up valuable space in your home, cottage, farm or business. These abandoned fuel oil tanks are at potential risk for a fuel leak and should be properly removed by a qualified professional.

Why you should remove your dormant Oil Tanks

Do you want to take a gamble with your health and investment and leave that unused oil tank on your property?

Over time and usage home heating oil tanks may acquire semi-solids (sludge) within them. This sludge contains many harmful contaminants and moisture. Oil tanks that stay dormant with contamination sludge inside could possibly become a hazard to you and your family because of bacterial growth that can form within the tank. Furthermore, these tanks may begin to leak due to corrosion.
Your home or business is one of the largest investments you will make in your lifetime, why gamble with investments? Eliminate the potential risk of an abandoned furnace oil tank? The way to eliminate this risk is to remove the threat by removing the dormant oil tanks!

It is recommended that you remove your abandoned oil tank as soon as possible!

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Knob & Tube wiring




Knob and tube wiring in residential installations

May 1, 2009 Supersedes FLASH 06-04-FL

Issues with knob and tube wiring:

Since January 2003 the Electrical Safety Authority has received an increasing number of questions about
the safety of knob and tube wiring. In particular, purchasers or owners of older homes are finding that many insurers will not provide or renew coverage on such properties. In some cases, the insurance companies are requiring a total replacement of this wiring prior to providing insurance coverage.

Knob and tube wiring, more recently referred to as open wiring, was a wiring method used in the early 1900s to 1940s in the residential sector. Over the years wiring installation practices have changed in the residential sector and knob and tube wiring is no longer installed; however, parts continue to be available for maintenance purposes.

Existing knob and tube conductors concealed in walls, floor spaces, etc; supplying general lighting and receptacle circuits are permitted to remain in place if:
  • They are protected by a 15 ampere fuse or circuit breaker; and
  • No additional outlets have been added to the original installation so as to overload the circuit; and
  • The conductors, where visible, appear to be in good condition. 

If your home has knob and tube wiring, we recommend that you follow these guidelines: 
  • Have a licensed electrical contractor check the “knob and tube” conductors in your existing installations for sign of deterioration and damage or request a general inspection from ESA. TheGeneral Inspection report will identify visible electrical safety concerns in your electrical wiring.
  • Knob & tube conductors should be replaced where exposed conductors show evidence of mechanical abuse and or deterioration, poor connections, overheating, alterations that result in overloading, or if changes to wiring contravene any section of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code.

Homes with knob and tube wiring may not have the electrical capacity to meet today’s needs. As a result, homeowners have modified their electrical system with what the Electrical Safety Authority classifies as unsafe practices:
  • Improper use of extension cords – using improperly rates extension cords, or using extension cords  as permanent wiring;
  • Improper fuse replacement – using 20 or 30 amp fuses to replace15 amp;
  • Improper connections - adding receptacles and outlets on existing circuits or improperly connecting to the knob and tube wiring (this work should be done by a licensed electrician);
  • Removing ground pins – ground pins on power bars or electrical equipment should not be removed to accommodate the two pin receptacles used in knob and tube wiring (2 pin to 3 pin are not permitted)
  • Improper replacement of two pin receptacles. If you require a three prong receptacle, only use a GFCI receptacle.
Homeowners who are planning to modify their knob and tube wiring, or any other electrical wiring, should have the work performed by a licensed electrical contractor or electrician and arrange for an electrical inspection by Electrical Safety Authority.

Receptacles in existing knob and tube installations:

Where grounding type receptacles (three pin) are installed in existing knob and tube installations to replace the ungrounded type (two pin) receptacle, special caution must be exercised. 
  
Two and three pin receptacle

Rule 26-700(7) requires the installation of a bond conductor to bond the receptacle to ground. This is permitted to be an external bonding conductor that is connected to either the system ground conductor or a metallic cold water pipe that is bonded to ground. This method may be difficult to accomplish.

As an alternative to bonding, Rule 26-700(8) of the Code also states "grounding type receptacles without a bonding conductor shall be permitted to be installed provided each receptacle is protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type that is an integral part of this receptacle; or supplied from a receptacle containing a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type; or supplied from a circuit protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type (a GFCI breaker in the panel, or either a GFCI receptacle or a GFCI dead front mounted in an outlet box next to the panel). Where this option is used, no bonding conductor is permitted between outlets unless that bond conductor is in turn connected to ground.

GFCI protection of the receptacles does not provide a ground reference to the U-ground slot of the
receptacles. Some appliances require a bond be connected to the U-ground slot in order to function
properly. For example, surge protective devices for computer or entertainment equipment will not function without a ground reference.

As new electrical equipment is introduced into the dwelling unit there might be a need for additional
outlets to be installed. Extension cords are not to be used as a substitute for permanent wiring. The
following shall be followed when installing new receptacles:
  • Outdoor receptacles shall be GFCI protected,
  • Bathroom and washroom receptacles shall be GFCI protected.
  • Kitchen receptacles within 1 meter of a sink shall be GFCI protected
  • New outlets shall follow the current Ontario Electrical Safety Code requirements for wiring, meaning a new branch circuit shall be grounded and receptacles that utilize the three pin grounded configuration.

Benefits of new wiring:

While knob and tube conductors in good condition and has not been inappropriately altered will not
present undue hazards it is worth noting that modern electrical installations contain safety benefits not
found in older electrical systems.

These include:
  • Generally larger electrical capacity and more electrical circuits reducing the need to use extension cords
  • Splices and joints made in approved electrical boxes
  • Dedicated electrical circuits for certain types of electrical equipment or appliances
  • Grounded and bonded receptacles, switches and light fixtures
  • Tamper resistant receptacles in homes
  • Ground fault circuit interrupters in bathrooms and outdoor locations as per the latest edition of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code
  • Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters in bedroom receptacle circuits
  • And GFCI’s near sinks.
Homeowners who are planning to modify their knob and tube wiring, or any other electrical wiring, should have the work performed by a licensed electrical contractor or electrician and arrange for an electrical inspection by Electrical Safety Authority.

Myths
  • Knob & Tube wiring is unsafe.
  • All knob and tube wiring must be disconnected and replaced.
  • The Ontario Electrical Safety Code no longer recognizes knob and tube wiring as an acceptable wiring method.
 Facts
  • Knob & Tube wiring is safe, provided it is properly maintained by competent licensed people as outlined above.
  • The Electrical Safety Authority as well as the Ontario Electrical Safety Code recognize and accept knob and tube wiring methods.
  • The Ontario Electrical Safety Code 2002 edition contains rules that govern the installation of open type wiring methods (knob & tube). Rules 12-200 to 12-224 set out the minimum safety standards for the installation of open wiring, which may still be installed to this day.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Asbestos - Vermiculite Attic Insulation

Asbestos -Vermiculite Insulation

Vermiculite insulation
Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral. When heated rapidly to a high temperature, this crystalline mineral expands into low-density, accordion-like strands. In this form, vermiculite is a lightweight, odorless and fire-resistant material that has been used in various applications, such as an insulation material for attics and walls.
Asbestos Contamination
Unfortunately Vermiculite can contains Asbestos which can easily be inhaled because it tends to separate into microscopic particles that become airborne. Exposure to asbestos can result in lung cancer, mesothelioma, inflammation of the chest cavity, and a scarring disease of the lungs known as asbestosis. The risk of contracting these diseases generally increases with the duration and intensity of exposure to asbestos, and smokers may face an even greater risk of lung cancer.
The largest and oldest vermiculite mine was started in the 1920s near Libby, Montana in the United States. Although it was known that the vermiculite there was contaminated with tremolite, a highly toxic form of asbestos, the mine continued to operate until stiffer environmental controls finally forced it to close in 1990. By this time, the asbestos-infused insulator had been installed in thousands of homes across the United States & Canada. 
Visual IdentificationZonolite brand vermiculite is likely contaminated by asbestos
Vermiculite insulation is a pebble-like or rectangular, chunky product about the size of a pencil eraser, and is usually a shiny gray-brown or silver-gold color. A valuable clue in the identification of contaminated Vermiculite is the presence of empty bags in the attic that bear the name Zonolite®, which was the commercial name for vermiculite mined in the Libby mine. 
What is the cost of removing Vermiculite? 
A Certified Asbestos Abatement contractor recently gave one my clients an estimate of $14,000 to remove the vermiculite from the attic of a 1400 square foot home in Toronto. 
What should be done about asbestos found in homes?
If found in an attic never disturb vermiculite. These products must be airborne to cause a health risk through inhalation, which most likely happens when they are removed or handled. Here are some additional recommendations for clients with vermiculite issues:
  • Two to three cup fulls of the suspect product should be collected & taken to a laboratory for testing to confirm the presence of Asbestos in the product.  
  • Only a Certified Asbestos Abatement contractor should be hired to remove Vermiculite.
  • Do not allow children to play in an attic.
  • Do not launder clothing exposed to vermiculite with family clothing.
  • Do not overreact. According to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (OSHA), asbestos-related illnesses are usually the result of high levels of exposure for long periods of time. Left undisturbed in the attic, asbestos is generally not a life-threatening situation. Furthermore, air generally flows into the attic from the house, and not the other way around.
  • Do not use the attic as a storage area. 
  • Never use compressed air for cleaning around vermiculite. Avoid dry-sweeping, vacuuming, shoveling, or other dry clean-up methods. Wet methods are best.
  • Seal cracks and holes in attics, such as around light fixtures and ceiling fans, where insulation may pass through.
  • Use proper respiratory protection. Disposable respirators or dust masks are not appropriate for avoiding asbestos exposure.

In summary, vermiculite is a potentially hazardous mineral that was used in the past as an insulation material in buildings, but its dangers can be reduced with some simple precautions.

SubterraneanTermites

Termites
Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is hard to notice, and damage usually is found before the termites are seen. Prevent infestations because if they occur, they will almost always need professional pest-control service.
Termites are similar in appearance to ants, measuring approximately the length of a grain of rice however; they are creamy white in colour.  You aren’t likely to spot one though, as they need a damp environment such as mud tunnels, wood and soil in order to survive. Their low profile and tendency to work 24 hours a day, year-round has helped them thrive since the Jurassic era. Situating their colonies underground, they can enter your home by tunneling into wood or constructing shelter tubes to carry them through paper-thin cracks in your foundation. It’s a common misconception that only homes with wood exteriors get termites. They can easily gain access through rubble foundation walls, concrete blocks, bricks and virtually anywhere there is a crack.
 

Signs of Infestation
Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to inspect for termites or other wood-destroying organisms. Generally, the first sign of infestation is the presence of swarming termites on the window or near indoor light. If they are found inside the house, it almost always means that they have infested. Other signs that may be found are termite wings on window sills or in cobwebs, and shelter tubes / mud tunnels, which are tunnels constructed by the termites from soil or wood and debris. Usually, wood damage is not found at first, but when it is found, it definitely reveals a termite infestation. Anywhere wood touches soil is a possible entry into a home for termites. Examine wood which sounds dull or hollow when struck by a screwdriver or hammer. Inspect suspected areas with a sharp, pointed tool, such as an ice pick, to find termite galleries or their damage. 
Check the bottom of exterior doors and frames, wood siding in contact with the ground, and crawlspaces. Mud tunnels running from the ground up the side of the house may indicate termite infestation. Observe the eaves and gable vents and wood window sills for indication of the entrance of swarming termites, and note excessive dampness or large areas where the vegetation is dead.

Outdoors
Check the foundation of the house, garage and other buildings for shelter tubes coming from the soil. Look closely around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, areas near kitchens and bathrooms, and hard-to-see places. Check window and door frames, and where utility services enter the house for termite infestation or wood decay. Also, look behind shrubbery and plants near walls. Pay special attention to areas where earth and wood meet, such as fences, stair carriages and trellises. Ensure that exterior grading around the house permits surface water to flow away from your home, be cautious about downspouts that can saturate the ground close to the foundation. This is important because most termites live in the top ten inches of soil from April to December. Their queen can live as much as thirty feet below ground and has a lifespan of twenty years. Firewood and other wood products should always be kept away from your home’s foundation, and vegetation should be trimmed away from the main house structure.

Indoors 
Carefully check all doors, window facings, baseboards, and hardwood flooring. Discoloration or stains on walls or ceilings may mean that water is leaking and can decay wood, and this can aid termite infestation. It is very important to inspect where plumbing and utility pipes enter the foundation and flooring. Also, examine the attic for shelter tubes, water leakage, and wood damage.
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 Prevention  Many termite problems can be prevented. The most important thing to do is to deny termites access to food (wood), moisture and shelter. Follow these suggestions:
  • have at least a 2-inch clearance between the house and planter boxes, or soil-filled porches;
  • eliminate all wood-to-soil contact, such as trellises, fence posts, stair casings and door facings (they can be put on masonry blocks or on treated wood);
  • separate shrubbery from the house to help make it easier to inspect the foundation line;
  • use wolmanized wood (pressure-treated wood) so that rain will not rot it;
  • seal openings through the foundation;
  • remove wood scraps and stumps from around the foundation;
  • have at least 12 to 18 inches of clearance between floor beams and the soil underneath.

Chemical Treatment
Termite treatment often requires specialized equipment. Therefore, it is recommended that you always use the services of a Professional Pest control company, because they will be familiar with construction principles and practices, have the necessary equipment, and know about subterranean termites.
Exterminating Termites
If you think you have a termite infestation in your house, you need to call a structural pest control company to conduct a professional inspection. To find a company, ask friends or coworkers for recommendations, or check the Yellow Pages. If the inspection finds evidence of drywood termites, you have several options, depending on the degree of infestation. Fumigation and heating of the entire house are the only options that ensure eradication in the entire structure. If the infestation is contained in a small area, local or spot control may be effective. However, hidden infestations in other parts of the structure will not be eradicated.

Total (Whole-House) Eradication 
For the heat method, pets, plants, and other items that might be damaged by high temperatures must be removed. The house is then covered with tarps, and hot air is blown into the tarp until the inside temperature reaches 140° F to 150° F, and the temperature of the structural timbers reaches 120° F. The time to complete this procedure varies greatly from one structure to another, depending on factors such as the building's construction and the weather conditions. The procedure may not be practical for structures that cannot be heated evenly.
Local or Spot Control
Local or spot-control methods include the use of pesticides, electric current, extreme cold, localized heat, microwave energy, or any combination of these methods. Local or spot control also includes the removal and replacement of infested structural timber. These methods are intended to remove or kill termites only within the specific targeted area, leaving open the possibility of other undetected infestations within the structure. These treatments are NOT designed for whole-house eradication. Any pest control company that claims whole-house results with local or spot control methods is guilty of false advertising and should be reported.
Local or spot treatment with pesticides involves drilling and injecting pesticides into infested timbers, as well as the topical application of toxic chemicals. The electric-current method involves delivering electric energy to targeted infestations. For the extreme cold method, liquid nitrogen is pumped into wall voids adjacent to suspected infestation sites, reducing the area to -20° F. The localized heat method involves heating infested structural timbers to 120° F. The microwave method kills termites by directing microwaves into termite-infested wood.
If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:
 
• sawdust-like droppings;
• dirt or mud-like tubes or trails on the structure;
• damaged wood members (like window sills); and
• swarming winged insects within the structure, especially in the spring or fall.