Double Tapping a Circuit Breaker

 

A double tapped circuit breaker (Two wires entering the same breaker from two separate circuits) is one of the most common electrical defects that home inspectors find when checking the main electric panel. The problem with putting two wires in a circuit breaker designed to hold one is that the wires could become loose, even if they feel very tight.  Loose wires can lead to overheating, arcing, and possible fire.  

Some breakers and connections are approved for double tapping with a few restrictions i.e. the wire size of both wire entering the breaker should be of the same gauge.

Even if the breaker is approved for double tapping, a concern would be a possible Code violation, in how many outlets are on the circuit. If one of the circuits was for a kitchen fridge then likely the double tap would be illegal, unless it was during a time when other items like the hood fan were allowed on that circuit in the 80s. If it were say a number of bedrooms with two feeds coming in and the total was 12 outlets or less the Code would not be violated. It all depends on the circuit, the breaker type, the total number of outlets and the method used.

Possible options:

1. If the circuit was properly loaded but the breaker was not approved for two taps, then a simple marrette connection (providing there is space in the panel) would clear up the issue.

2. Install a new breaker that is approved for use with the panel & designed to hold two wires.

3. Install a new breaker if there is room or install a slim line breaker & split the two wires off to separate breakers. 

 

When this condition is observed it is always recommended that the breaker be checked for safety by a licensed electrician.

Ten Things to Know about Mold

1.      Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints. Pregnant women, young children & the elderly are at higher risk.

2.      There is no practical way to eliminate all mould and mould spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mould growth is to control moisture.

3.      If mould is a problem in a home, you must clean up the mould and eliminate sources of moisture.

4.      Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mould growth.

5.      Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60%) to decrease mould growth by:

a.       venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside;

b.      using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;

c.       increasing ventilation;

d.      and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.

6.      Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mould growth.

7.      If found in small amounts, clean mould off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that contain are mould, may need to be replaced.

8.      Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.

9.      In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., next to bathtubs, by sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).

10.  Moulds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.

              

If extensive mould is discovered it is recommended that a professional Certified Mould remediation company be contacted to perform the clean up. 

Click here to learn more from a Certified Mould Remediation company: http://www.Mouldoff.com

Asbestos - Friable Vs. Non-Friable

Asbestos was a popular ingredient in building materials for many years because of its indestructibility, insulating properties, tensile strength and low electrical conductivity. It is still used today, but a distinction is made between more and less dangerous Asbestos-Containing Material (ACM). More dangerous ACM can release asbestos fibers into the air where they can be inhaled and cause illness. Less dangerous ACM generally coats or encapsulates the asbestos fibers with cement, plastics, or asphalt so that they are not easily released into the air. The more dangerous ACMs have been banned or voluntarily replaced to a large degree, while some of the less dangerous ones remain in use.

Friable Asbestos-Containing Materials are defined as those materials containing more than 1% asbestos which could be crumbled, pulverized or reduced to powder by hand pressure when dry.

Non-friable Asbestos-Containing Materials are generally regarded to be a less dangerous form of ACM, not very likely to release asbestos fibers into the air. A non-friable ACM is a material containing more than 1% asbestos but not able to be crumbled, pulverized or reduced to powder by hand pressure when dry. Non-Friable ACM are much more durable because they are held together by a binder such as cement, vinyl or asphalt etc...

The terms "friable" and "non-friable" are not necessarily meant to pertain to a particular material for its entire lifetime. Some materials will always be friable by their nature, particularly the lightweight uncapsulated ACM once used for insulation. Non-friable ACM can become friable if it is damaged or worn enough.  Cutting or grinding or sanding a non-friable material like asbestos-containing cement, as the homeowner might do during renovation, for instance, would create large amounts of dust which might contain significant amounts of asbestos fibers which had been freed from their binding material by the pressure exerted by power tools. 

 

Common Asbestos Building  Materials

• STEAM PIPES, BOILERS, and FURNACE DUCTS insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly.
• RESILIENT FLOOR TILES (vinyl asbestos, asphalt, and rubber), the backing on VINYL SHEET FLOORING, and ADHESIVES used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers. So may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal.
• CEMENT SHEET, MILLBOARD, and PAPER used as insulation around furnaces and wood burning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers so may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation.
• DOOR GASKETS in furnaces, wood stoves, and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use.
• SOUNDPROOFING OR DECORATIVE MATERIAL sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly, or water-damaged material may release fibers. So will sanding, drilling, or scraping the material.
• PATCHING AND JOINT COMPOUNDS for walls and ceilings, and TEXTURED PAINTS. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos.
• ASBESTOS CEMENT ROOFING, SHINGLES, and SIDING. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless they are sawed, drilled, or cut. These products have been used extensively in some areas of the world.

Asbestos - Health concern

WHAT IS ASBESTOS?

Asbestos is a generic term describing a number of naturally occurring fibrous minerals that have been used in a wide range of products because of their insulating, acoustical, fire protective and chemical resistance properties. According to some definitions, there are as many as 30 varieties of asbestos, however only six are of commercial use. These six are listed in the asbestos definition section 1 of the regulation 278/05: antinolite, amosite, anthophylite, chrysotile, crocidilite and tremolite.

Two classes of asbestos products were widely used. The first class includes materials easily crumbled or loose in composition. These are referred to as “friable”. The second type includes materials much more durable because they are held together by a binder such as cement, vinyl, or asphalt. These products are termed “non friable”.

The release of asbestos fibres from asbestos-containing materials is primarily a result of activities that result in their disturbance. In order to prevent the exposure of individuals to harmful levels of asbestos fibres, proper precautions and safe work procedures must be implemented, when any work is conducted on or close to asbestos contaminated materials. In addition, regular inspections to readily identify damaged or deteriorating materials must be conducted so that they can be promptly addressed.

HOW HAS ASBESTOS BEEN USED?

During the 1930’s up to the late 1970’s, asbestos was used in many building materials. To date many buildings and houses constructed during that time period still contain some form of asbestos materials, such as sprayed fibrous fireproofing on structural steelwork, thermal insulation on heaters, boilers, pipes and other mechanical equipment, decorative or acoustic plaster finish on ceiling and walls, asbestos-cement products, including roof material acoustic paneling, electric insulation, laboratory table tops, water and sewage piping systems, ceiling tiles, vinyl floor tiles or sheet flooring.

In 1973 the spray application of asbestos insulation ceased when new regulation were implemented under the Ontario Construction Safety Act. Following the change suppliers of pipe and boiler insulation stopped using asbestos in their products. Both of these asbestos applications are prohibited by the new asbestos regulation (O Rag 654/85).

WHY IS ASBESTOS A HEALTH HAZARD?

Asbestos is a known hazardous material. Several diseases are associated with exposure to asbestos. They are asbestosis, mesothelioma, cancer of the lung and other asbestos related cancers. These are serious, debilitating diseases that often end in severe medical disability or death

To cause disease, asbestos fibres must be inhaled into the lungs. Fibres that can enter the lung and cause disease are too small to be visible to the naked eye. For each disease there is a period of latency that is usually more than ten years, between first exposure to asbestos and the appearance of the disease. It is this characteristic that makes asbestos disease so insidious. Exposure can continue for many years without any outward evidence of harm while the disease develops silently within.

ASBESTOS RELATED DISEASES

Asbestosis
Asbestosis is a disease of the lungs caused by scar tissue forming around very small asbestos fibres deposited deep in the lungs. As the amount of scar tissue increases, the ability of lungs to expand and contract decreases, causing shortness of breath and a heavier workload on the heart. Ultimately, asbestosis can be fatal.

Mesothelioma
Mesothelioma is a relatively rare cancer of the lining of the chest and/or abdomen. While this disease is seldom observed in the general population, it appears frequently in workers exposed to asbestos.

Lung Cancer
Lung cancer appears quite frequently in people exposed to asbestos dust. While science and medicine have not yet been able to explain precisely why or how asbestos causes lung cancer, it is clear that exposure to asbestos dust can increase the risk of this disease. Studies have shown that the risk to asbestos workers is roughly five times greater than for people who are not exposed.

Cigarette smoking, another cause of lung cancer, multiplies the risk. Cigarette smoking and asbestos exposure combine to produce a synergistic effect. Research has shown that the risk of developing lung cancer was fifty times higher for asbestos workers, who smoked, than for workers who neither smoked nor worked with asbestos.

Other Illnesses
The relationship between asbestos exposure and asbestosis, mesothelioma and lung cancer has been clearly established and is beyond argument. Several other cancers have also been associated with the inhalation of asbestos. Although the evidence is inconclusive, these cancers should be noted. They are, gastrointestinal cancer affecting all sited in the gastrointestinal tract, and cancer of the larynx.

A number of less serious effects have been associated with asbestos exposure, such as pleural plaques, asbestos bodies and warts. Pleural plaques are areas of scarring of the pleural surfaces. In general, they are not associated with any functional abnormality and are merely and indicator of asbestos exposure. Occasionally, they can become so widespread that they restrict lung function. Asbestos bodies, also known as “Ferruginous bodies”, result when asbestos fibres become coated with a substance containing protein and iron. The asbestos bodies are not harmful and like pleural plaques, serve as evidence of asbestos exposure. Asbestos warts are harmless skin growths that occur when asbestos fibres penetrate the skin.

Have a Licensed Professional Do the Removal

If you are planning on remodeling your home or repairing items that may contain asbestos, such as asbestos ceiling tile, floor tiles, or pipe insulation, there are a few issues that you should be aware of. Asbestos, when left undisturbed, will usually not produce airborne dust or fibers. The danger comes when asbestos-containing materials are disturbed, allowing potentially deadly fibers to be dispersed into the air where they can be inhaled. Never attempt to remove or repair these toxic products. It is best to hire a licensed Asbestos abatement contractor to remove these hazardous substances. A licensed Asbestos abatement contractor will make sure the work area is sealed off completely from the rest of the house during the removal process & prevent any Asbestos from contaminating the home.

Knob & Tube Wiring - Myths, Facts & Home Insurance

Most home purchasers will experience difficulty getting their home insured when Knob & Tube wiring is found to be present. The purpose of this article is to remove some of the myths surrounding this topic & share some facts.

Knob & Tube wiring or Open wiring as it is sometimes referred to, was the electrical system that was used in the first half of the 1900’s. It consist of two wires, live & neutral (no earth). Insulator knobs were used to keep the wires isolated & ceramic tubes used to line holes through wooden joists/studs. Insurance companies deem this older style of wiring to be unsafe & to be a fire hazard, however according to the Electrical Safety Authority, knob & tube wiring can be safe & functional.

It is recommended that a qualified electrician  inspect the wiring to determine its safety. With proper documentation from a certified electrician many insurance companies will insure a home with Knob & Tube. 

• You should be aware that there is no ground wire in a Knob & Tube wiring circuit, which may be an issue for today’s lifestyle, high electricity usage and technology. 
• Knob & Tube Wiring is only rated for 15 Amps, it should be protected by a 15 Amp fuse or circuit breaker. Devices rated for more than 15 Amps cannot be used with Knob & Tube wiring. 
• If three pin devices are to be used on a Knob & tube outlet, then it is recommended that a GFI be installed.
• Also, there are potential fire hazards with the break down of the insulation around the knob and tube wiring that comes with age, and should the black and white wires make contact.

Some home insurance companies will refuse to insure homes with knob and tube wiring. However, there are companies that continue to offer regular priced policies for homes with knob and tube wiring and others who ask a premium for this insurance. If you have any concerns about the safety of your knob and tube wiring, you can hire an electrician to update your home wiring. The average cost per room is approximately $800 to $1000 per room, expect to pay more for a two story home than a bungalow. Also ask if the quote covers all repairs to the walls, floors & ceilings. Keep the receipt to show prospective buyers when it comes time to sell.


If you purchase a home in the Toronto area where knob and tube wiring is still part of the electrical circuit, ask your realtor & your insurance company for advice on securing insurance before the deal firms up. Insurance companies will often ask you to estimate the percentage of knob & tube wiring that exists in the property before making a decision on insuring the property. This will help to mitigate any insurance problems when the closing date approaches.

Homeowners who are planning to modify their knob and tube wiring, or any other electrical wiring, should have the work performed by a licensed electrical contractor or electrician and arrange for an electrical inspection by Electrical Safety Authority.

Myths

• Knob & Tube wiring is unsafe.

• All knob and tube wiring must be disconnected and replaced.

• The Ontario Electrical Safety Code no longer recognizes knob and tube wiring as an acceptable wiring method.

Facts

• Knob & Tube wiring is safe, provided it is properly maintained by competent licensed people as outlined above.

• The Electrical Safety Authority as well as the Ontario Electrical Safety Code recognize and accept knob and tube wiring methods.

• The Ontario Electrical Safety Code 2002 edition contains rules that govern the installation of open type wiring methods (knob & tube). Rules 12-200 to 12-224 set out the minimum safety standards for the installation of open wiring, which may still be installed to this day.

Aluminum Wiring

Aluminum wiring in residential installations
Issues with aluminum wiring
Since January of 2003 the Electrical Safety Authority has received an increasing number of questions about the safety of aluminum wiring. In particular, purchasers or owners of homes built from the mid 1960’s until the late 1970’s with aluminum wiring are finding that many insurers will not provide or renew insurance coverage on such properties unless the wiring is inspected and repaired or replaced as necessary and this work is inspected by ESA and a copy of the certificate of inspection is provided to the insurer. In some cases the insurer may require replacement of the aluminum wiring with copper wiring. Check with your insurance company for their requirements.

Some homes may have a mixture of aluminum and copper wiring.

Reported problems with aluminum wiring have been related to the overheating and failure of aluminum wiring terminations. This is due to aluminums tendency to oxidize and its incompatibility with devices designed for use with copper wiring. Warm cover plates or discolouration of switches or receptacles, flickering lights, or the smell of hot plastic insulation may evidence these problems.

Each home will be different and must be assessed on its own. It is highly recommended the homeowner hire a licensed electrical contractor who is knowledgeable in the special techniques required for working with and repairing aluminum wiring. The contractor should do an assessment, make the necessary repairs, and have the work inspected by ESA. The homeowner should obtain a copy of the Certificate of Inspection for their records and for their insurance company (if requested).

As mentioned above, where problems exist with aluminum wiring they are usually found at termination points. This necessitates the opening of all outlets (receptacles, switches, fixtures, appliance connections, and in the panelboard) and visually inspecting terminations for signs of failure and overheating without removing or disturbing the devices or wiring. There should be no signs of overheating such as darkened or discoloured connections, melted insulation, etc.

Where problems are found the damaged aluminum conductor should be cut back to remove the damaged portion and then the necessary repairs made.

Required markings for devices used with aluminum wiring
Replacement receptacles and switches shall be installed in compliance with the Ontario Electrical Safety
Code and marked as follows:

All terminations of aluminum conductors shall be to devices marked as per Table F1 and Photo F1; this includes the bare bond conductor as well. Rule 12-118(3) provides two exceptions to this requirement. The first exception is for devices or fixtures with wire leads, in which case the joint between the wire lead and the aluminum conductor shall be made with a wire connector approved for copper to aluminum connections and marked as per Table F1. The second exception is the outlet box bonding screw, which does not require approval for connection of the aluminum bonding conductor.

Photo F1 – Required marking for devices used with aluminum wiring

Terminations of aluminum conductors
Rule 12-118(6) of the Code requires the connection of aluminum conductors to wiring devices having wire binding terminal screws, about which the conductors can be looped under the head of the screw, shall be made by forming the conductor in a clockwise direction around the screw into three-fourths of a complete loop and only one conductor shall be connected to any one screw.

Devices with “push-in” terminations shall not be used with aluminum conductors.

An alternative to using copper/aluminum approved devices is to connect a copper wire “pigtail” between the aluminum conductor and the device connection screw of a device approved for copper only connections. Pigtailing also applies to the bond conductor, which is often overlooked. The wire connector used for the pigtail joint shall be marked as per Table F1.


Rule 12-118(1) states that adequate precaution shall be given to the termination and splicing of aluminum conductors, including the removal of insulation, the cleaning of the bared conductor,  the compatibility and installation of fittings.

Aluminum conductors are softer than copper and care must be taken that they are not nicked or cut, or crushed during termination. Nicks, cuts, or crush spots at terminations result in a weak spot that may result in breakage of the conductor or a hot spot.

Rule 12-118(2) requires that a joint compound be used with stranded aluminum conductor connections, but does not require it for solid aluminum conductors. Even though not required by the Code, it is recommended that bare ends of solid aluminum conductors be coated with approved joint compound. Note: The compound is conductive and should be used sparingly and any excess compound should be removed.

Where pig tailing is used, Rule 12-3036 must be considered with respect to the minimum volume of box required to contain the existing as well as the new conductors and connections. Where there is not enough room in the existing outlet box, a surface mounted extension box may be required to contain the extra volume necessary to safely accommodate everything.

General inspection
Question
If ESA completes a general inspection, does the OESC require an older house that is wired with
aluminum wiring to have all non-CU/AL devices replaced with devices approved for connection to aluminum wiring (or have copper tails installed as per information included in this Bulletin ( 12-28-*).
Answer
No, If the devices are the original ones installed and show no visible signs of overheating or other damage, then they are not required to be replaced (it is recommended only). If a device shows any visible signs of overheating or other damage, then replacement is required. If any of the devices have been replaced in the past with newer devices (ie: Decora style), then they are not original and are required to be replaced with a Code compliant installation.

Rationale
Rule 2-300 requires that operating electrical equipment be kept in safe and proper working condition and
that defective equipment shall either be put in good order or permanently disconnected. Where there is
no evidence of deterioration of the wire, the termination, or the device, then the Code does not require
that repairs be made.
Myths
• Aluminum wiring was recalled because it is known to be a fire hazard.
• Aluminum wiring is no longer used for interior wiring systems.
Fact
• The Ontario Electrical Safety Code permits the installation of aluminum wiring.
• Adequate precautions shall be given to the terminations and splicing of aluminum conductors;
• Aluminum wiring itself is safe if proper connections and terminations are made, without damaging
the wire and devices approved for use with aluminum wire are employed.
• Aluminum wiring is widely used today for larger commercial and industrial feeders. Electrical
distribution companies use it widely throughout their distribution systems including the supply
service cable to most residences; in fact it may still be used today for interior wiring systems in
residential homes as well as other structures. Aluminum wiring itself is safe and if proper connections and terminations are made without damaging the wire and using approved materials installed in accordance with the Ontario Electrical Safety Code and the
manufacturer’s instructions, there should be no problems with the aluminum wiring installation.

Ungrounded Electrical Receptacles

Grounding of electrical receptacles (which some laypeople refer to as outlets) is an important safety feature that has been required in new construction since 1962, as it minimizes the risk of electric shock and protects electrical equipment from damage. Modern, grounded 120-volt receptacles have a small, round ground slot centered below two vertical hot and neutral slots, and it provides an alternate path for electricity that may stray from an appliance. Older homes often have ungrounded, two-slot receptacles that are outdated and potentially dangerous. Homeowners sometimes attempt to perform the following dangerous modifications to ungrounded receptacles:

• The use of an adapter, also known as a "cheater plug." Adapters permit the ungrounded operation of appliances that are designed for grounded operation. These are a cheaper alternative to replacing ungrounded receptacles, but are less safe than properly grounding the connected appliance;
• Replacing a two-slot receptacle with a three-slot receptacle without re-wiring the electrical system so that a path to ground is provided to the receptacle. While this measure may serve as a seemingly proper receptacle for three-pronged appliances, this “upgrade” is potentially more dangerous than the use of an adapter because the receptacle will appear to be grounded and future owners might never be aware that their system is not grounded. If a building still uses knob-and-tube wiring, it is likely than any three-slot receptacles are ungrounded. To be sure, inspectors may test suspicious receptacles for grounding; and
• Removal of the ground pin from an appliance. This common procedure not only prevents grounding but also bypasses the appliance’s polarizing feature, since a de-pinned plug can be inserted into the receptacle upside-down.

While homeowners may be made aware of the limitations of ungrounded electrical receptacles, upgrades are not necessarily required. Many small electrical appliances, such as alarm clocks and coffee makers, are two-pronged and are thus unaffected by a lack of grounding in the building’s electrical system.

Upgrading the system will bring it closer to modern safety standards, however, and this may be accomplished in the following ways:

• Install three-slot receptacles and wire them so that they’re correctly grounded.
• Install ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). These can be installed upstream at the electrical panel or at the receptacle itself. GFCIs are an accepted replacement because they will protect against electric shocks even in the absence of grounding, but they may not protect the powered appliance. Also, GFCI-protected ungrounded receptacles may not work effectively with surge protectors. Ungrounded GFCI-protected receptacles should be identified with labels that come with the new receptacles that state:  “No Equipment Ground.”
• Replace three-slot receptacles with two-slot receptacles. Two-slot receptacles correctly represent that the system is ungrounded, lessening the chance that they will be used improperly.

Homeowners and non-qualified professionals should never attempt to modify a building’s electrical components. Misguided attempts to ground receptacles to a metallic water line or ground rod may be dangerous. Inspectors may recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate electrical receptacles and wiring.

In summary, adjustments should be made by qualified electricians -- not homeowners -- to an electrical system to upgrade ungrounded receptacles to meet modern safety standards and the requirements of today's typical household appliances.

Oil Tank Removal

“According to the Insurance Bureau of Canada, a home with an exterior oil tank older than 15 years or an interior tank older than 20 years will NOT be insured” The Technical Standards & Safety Authority has mandated that all heating fuel suppliers must inspect all oil tanks to which they deliver fuel, whether the oil tank is located above ground or below ground, initially and at least once every 10 years. (Homeowners, should visit the T.S.S.A. Website which has more information about heating oil tanks & furnaces that use heating oil). If your home has an exterior oil tank, interior oil tank, above ground fuel storage tank, underground fuel storage tank or heating oil tank that is no longer in use or more past it's service life cycle it MUST be removed from your home. Or perhaps you have an abandoned oil tank just sitting and taking up valuable space in your home, cottage, farm or business. These abandoned fuel oil tanks are at potential risk for a fuel leak and should be properly removed by a qualified professional. Why you should remove your dormant Oil Tanks Do you want to take a gamble with your health and investment and leave that unused oil tank on your property? Over time and usage home heating oil tanks may acquire semi-solids (sludge) within them. This sludge contains many harmful contaminants and moisture. Oil tanks that stay dormant with contamination sludge inside could possibly become a hazard to you and your family because of bacterial growth that can form within the tank. Furthermore, these tanks may begin to leak due to corrosion. Your home or business is one of the largest investments you will make in your lifetime, why gamble with investments? Eliminate the potential risk of an abandoned furnace oil tank? The way to eliminate this risk is to remove the threat by removing the dormant oil tanks! It is recommended that you remove your abandoned oil tank as soon as possible!

Knob & Tube wiring

Knob and tube wiring in residential installations

May 1, 2009 Supersedes FLASH 06-04-FL

Issues with knob and tube wiring:

Since January 2003 the Electrical Safety Authority has received an increasing number of questions about

the safety of knob and tube wiring. In particular, purchasers or owners of older homes are finding that many insurers will not provide or renew coverage on such properties. In some cases, the insurance companies are requiring a total replacement of this wiring prior to providing insurance coverage.

Knob and tube wiring, more recently referred to as open wiring, was a wiring method used in the early 1900s to 1940s in the residential sector. Over the years wiring installation practices have changed in the residential sector and knob and tube wiring is no longer installed; however, parts continue to be available for maintenance purposes.

Existing knob and tube conductors concealed in walls, floor spaces, etc; supplying general lighting and receptacle circuits are permitted to remain in place if:

• They are protected by a 15 ampere fuse or circuit breaker; and

• No additional outlets have been added to the original installation so as to overload the circuit; and

• The conductors, where visible, appear to be in good condition. 

If your home has knob and tube wiring, we recommend that you follow these guidelines: 

• Have a licensed electrical contractor check the “knob and tube” conductors in your existing installations for sign of deterioration and damage or request a general inspection from ESA. TheGeneral Inspection report will identify visible electrical safety concerns in your electrical wiring.

• Knob & tube conductors should be replaced where exposed conductors show evidence of mechanical abuse and or deterioration, poor connections, overheating, alterations that result in overloading, or if changes to wiring contravene any section of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code.

Homes with knob and tube wiring may not have the electrical capacity to meet today’s needs. As a result, homeowners have modified their electrical system with what the Electrical Safety Authority classifies as unsafe practices:

• Improper use of extension cords – using improperly rates extension cords, or using extension cords  as permanent wiring;

• Improper fuse replacement – using 20 or 30 amp fuses to replace15 amp;

• Improper connections - adding receptacles and outlets on existing circuits or improperly connecting to the knob and tube wiring (this work should be done by a licensed electrician);

• Removing ground pins – ground pins on power bars or electrical equipment should not be removed to accommodate the two pin receptacles used in knob and tube wiring (2 pin to 3 pin are not permitted)

• Improper replacement of two pin receptacles. If you require a three prong receptacle, only use a GFCI receptacle.

Homeowners who are planning to modify their knob and tube wiring, or any other electrical wiring, should have the work performed by a licensed electrical contractor or electrician and arrange for an electrical inspection by Electrical Safety Authority.

Receptacles in existing knob and tube installations:

Where grounding type receptacles (three pin) are installed in existing knob and tube installations to replace the ungrounded type (two pin) receptacle, special caution must be exercised. 

  

Two and three pin receptacle

Rule 26-700(7) requires the installation of a bond conductor to bond the receptacle to ground. This is permitted to be an external bonding conductor that is connected to either the system ground conductor or a metallic cold water pipe that is bonded to ground. This method may be difficult to accomplish.

As an alternative to bonding, Rule 26-700(8) of the Code also states "grounding type receptacles without a bonding conductor shall be permitted to be installed provided each receptacle is protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type that is an integral part of this receptacle; or supplied from a receptacle containing a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type; or supplied from a circuit protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type (a GFCI breaker in the panel, or either a GFCI receptacle or a GFCI dead front mounted in an outlet box next to the panel). Where this option is used, no bonding conductor is permitted between outlets unless that bond conductor is in turn connected to ground.

GFCI protection of the receptacles does not provide a ground reference to the U-ground slot of the

receptacles. Some appliances require a bond be connected to the U-ground slot in order to function

properly. For example, surge protective devices for computer or entertainment equipment will not function without a ground reference.

As new electrical equipment is introduced into the dwelling unit there might be a need for additional

outlets to be installed. Extension cords are not to be used as a substitute for permanent wiring. The

following shall be followed when installing new receptacles:

• Outdoor receptacles shall be GFCI protected,

• Bathroom and washroom receptacles shall be GFCI protected.

• Kitchen receptacles within 1 meter of a sink shall be GFCI protected

• New outlets shall follow the current Ontario Electrical Safety Code requirements for wiring, meaning a new branch circuit shall be grounded and receptacles that utilize the three pin grounded configuration.

Benefits of new wiring:

While knob and tube conductors in good condition and has not been inappropriately altered will not

present undue hazards it is worth noting that modern electrical installations contain safety benefits not

found in older electrical systems.

These include:

• Generally larger electrical capacity and more electrical circuits reducing the need to use extension cords

• Splices and joints made in approved electrical boxes

• Dedicated electrical circuits for certain types of electrical equipment or appliances

• Grounded and bonded receptacles, switches and light fixtures

• Tamper resistant receptacles in homes

• Ground fault circuit interrupters in bathrooms and outdoor locations as per the latest edition of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code

• Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters in bedroom receptacle circuits

• And GFCI’s near sinks.

Homeowners who are planning to modify their knob and tube wiring, or any other electrical wiring, should have the work performed by a licensed electrical contractor or electrician and arrange for an electrical inspection by Electrical Safety Authority.

Myths

• Knob & Tube wiring is unsafe.

• All knob and tube wiring must be disconnected and replaced.

• The Ontario Electrical Safety Code no longer recognizes knob and tube wiring as an acceptable wiring method.

 Facts

• Knob & Tube wiring is safe, provided it is properly maintained by competent licensed people as outlined above.

• The Electrical Safety Authority as well as the Ontario Electrical Safety Code recognize and accept knob and tube wiring methods.

• The Ontario Electrical Safety Code 2002 edition contains rules that govern the installation of open type wiring methods (knob & tube). Rules 12-200 to 12-224 set out the minimum safety standards for the installation of open wiring, which may still be installed to this day.

Asbestos - Vermiculite Attic Insulation

Asbestos -Vermiculite Insulation

Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral. When heated rapidly to a high temperature, this crystalline mineral expands into low-density, accordion-like strands. In this form, vermiculite is a lightweight, odorless and fire-resistant material that has been used in various applications, such as an insulation material for attics and walls.

Asbestos Contamination
Unfortunately Vermiculite can contains Asbestos which can easily be inhaled because it tends to separate into microscopic particles that become airborne. Exposure to asbestos can result in lung cancer, mesothelioma, inflammation of the chest cavity, and a scarring disease of the lungs known as asbestosis. The risk of contracting these diseases generally increases with the duration and intensity of exposure to asbestos, and smokers may face an even greater risk of lung cancer.
The largest and oldest vermiculite mine was started in the 1920s near Libby, Montana in the United States. Although it was known that the vermiculite there was contaminated with tremolite, a highly toxic form of asbestos, the mine continued to operate until stiffer environmental controls finally forced it to close in 1990. By this time, the asbestos-infused insulator had been installed in thousands of homes across the United States & Canada. 
Visual Identification
Vermiculite insulation is a pebble-like or rectangular, chunky product about the size of a pencil eraser, and is usually a shiny gray-brown or silver-gold color. A valuable clue in the identification of contaminated Vermiculite is the presence of empty bags in the attic that bear the name Zonolite®, which was the commercial name for vermiculite mined in the Libby mine. 
What is the cost of removing Vermiculite? 
A Certified Asbestos Abatement contractor recently gave one my clients an estimate of $14,000 to remove the vermiculite from the attic of a 1400 square foot home in Toronto. 
What should be done about asbestos found in homes?
If found in an attic never disturb vermiculite. These products must be airborne to cause a health risk through inhalation, which most likely happens when they are removed or handled. Here are some additional recommendations for clients with vermiculite issues:

• Two to three cup fulls of the suspect product should be collected & taken to a laboratory for testing to confirm the presence of Asbestos in the product.  
• Only a Certified Asbestos Abatement contractor should be hired to remove Vermiculite.
• Do not allow children to play in an attic.
• Do not launder clothing exposed to vermiculite with family clothing.
• Do not overreact. According to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (OSHA), asbestos-related illnesses are usually the result of high levels of exposure for long periods of time. Left undisturbed in the attic, asbestos is generally not a life-threatening situation. Furthermore, air generally flows into the attic from the house, and not the other way around.
• Do not use the attic as a storage area. 
• Never use compressed air for cleaning around vermiculite. Avoid dry-sweeping, vacuuming, shoveling, or other dry clean-up methods. Wet methods are best.
• Seal cracks and holes in attics, such as around light fixtures and ceiling fans, where insulation may pass through.
• Use proper respiratory protection. Disposable respirators or dust masks are not appropriate for avoiding asbestos exposure.

In summary, vermiculite is a potentially hazardous mineral that was used in the past as an insulation material in buildings, but its dangers can be reduced with some simple precautions.

SubterraneanTermites

Termites

Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is hard to notice, and damage usually is found before the termites are seen. Prevent infestations because if they occur, they will almost always need professional pest-control service.
Termites are similar in appearance to ants, measuring approximately the length of a grain of rice however; they are creamy white in colour.  You aren’t likely to spot one though, as they need a damp environment such as mud tunnels, wood and soil in order to survive. Their low profile and tendency to work 24 hours a day, year-round has helped them thrive since the Jurassic era. Situating their colonies underground, they can enter your home by tunneling into wood or constructing shelter tubes to carry them through paper-thin cracks in your foundation. It’s a common misconception that only homes with wood exteriors get termites. They can easily gain access through rubble foundation walls, concrete blocks, bricks and virtually anywhere there is a crack.

 

Signs of Infestation

Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to inspect for termites or other wood-destroying organisms. Generally, the first sign of infestation is the presence of swarming termites on the window or near indoor light. If they are found inside the house, it almost always means that they have infested. Other signs that may be found are termite wings on window sills or in cobwebs, and shelter tubes / mud tunnels, which are tunnels constructed by the termites from soil or wood and debris. Usually, wood damage is not found at first, but when it is found, it definitely reveals a termite infestation. Anywhere wood touches soil is a possible entry into a home for termites. Examine wood which sounds dull or hollow when struck by a screwdriver or hammer. Inspect suspected areas with a sharp, pointed tool, such as an ice pick, to find termite galleries or their damage. 
Check the bottom of exterior doors and frames, wood siding in contact with the ground, and crawlspaces. Mud tunnels running from the ground up the side of the house may indicate termite infestation. Observe the eaves and gable vents and wood window sills for indication of the entrance of swarming termites, and note excessive dampness or large areas where the vegetation is dead.

Outdoors

Check the foundation of the house, garage and other buildings for shelter tubes coming from the soil. Look closely around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, areas near kitchens and bathrooms, and hard-to-see places. Check window and door frames, and where utility services enter the house for termite infestation or wood decay. Also, look behind shrubbery and plants near walls. Pay special attention to areas where earth and wood meet, such as fences, stair carriages and trellises. Ensure that exterior grading around the house permits surface water to flow away from your home, be cautious about downspouts that can saturate the ground close to the foundation. This is important because most termites live in the top ten inches of soil from April to December. Their queen can live as much as thirty feet below ground and has a lifespan of twenty years. Firewood and other wood products should always be kept away from your home’s foundation, and vegetation should be trimmed away from the main house structure.

Indoors 

Carefully check all doors, window facings, baseboards, and hardwood flooring. Discoloration or stains on walls or ceilings may mean that water is leaking and can decay wood, and this can aid termite infestation. It is very important to inspect where plumbing and utility pipes enter the foundation and flooring. Also, examine the attic for shelter tubes, water leakage, and wood damage.

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Prevention  Many termite problems can be prevented. The most important thing to do is to deny termites access to food (wood), moisture and shelter. Follow these suggestions: have at least a 2-inch clearance between the house and planter boxes, or soil-filled porches; eliminate all wood-to-soil contact, such as trellises, fence posts, stair casings and door facings (they can be put on masonry blocks or on treated wood); separate shrubbery from the house to help make it easier to inspect the foundation line; use wolmanized wood (pressure-treated wood) so that rain will not rot it; seal openings through the foundation; remove wood scraps and stumps from around the foundation; have at least 12 to 18 inches of clearance between floor beams and the soil underneath.

Chemical Treatment

Termite treatment often requires specialized equipment. Therefore, it is recommended that you always use the services of a Professional Pest control company, because they will be familiar with construction principles and practices, have the necessary equipment, and know about subterranean termites.

Exterminating Termites
If you think you have a termite infestation in your house, you need to call a structural pest control company to conduct a professional inspection. To find a company, ask friends or coworkers for recommendations, or check the Yellow Pages. If the inspection finds evidence of drywood termites, you have several options, depending on the degree of infestation. Fumigation and heating of the entire house are the only options that ensure eradication in the entire structure. If the infestation is contained in a small area, local or spot control may be effective. However, hidden infestations in other parts of the structure will not be eradicated.

Total (Whole-House) Eradication 

For the heat method, pets, plants, and other items that might be damaged by high temperatures must be removed. The house is then covered with tarps, and hot air is blown into the tarp until the inside temperature reaches 140° F to 150° F, and the temperature of the structural timbers reaches 120° F. The time to complete this procedure varies greatly from one structure to another, depending on factors such as the building's construction and the weather conditions. The procedure may not be practical for structures that cannot be heated evenly.

Local or Spot Control

Local or spot-control methods include the use of pesticides, electric current, extreme cold, localized heat, microwave energy, or any combination of these methods. Local or spot control also includes the removal and replacement of infested structural timber. These methods are intended to remove or kill termites only within the specific targeted area, leaving open the possibility of other undetected infestations within the structure. These treatments are NOT designed for whole-house eradication. Any pest control company that claims whole-house results with local or spot control methods is guilty of false advertising and should be reported.

Local or spot treatment with pesticides involves drilling and injecting pesticides into infested timbers, as well as the topical application of toxic chemicals. The electric-current method involves delivering electric energy to targeted infestations. For the extreme cold method, liquid nitrogen is pumped into wall voids adjacent to suspected infestation sites, reducing the area to -20° F. The localized heat method involves heating infested structural timbers to 120° F. The microwave method kills termites by directing microwaves into termite-infested wood.

If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:

 
• sawdust-like droppings;
• dirt or mud-like tubes or trails on the structure;
• damaged wood members (like window sills); and
• swarming winged insects within the structure, especially in the spring or fall.